Mosaic Beach Blog

Removing tiles from mesh

Tips and Tricks...tip of the month...courtesy of the CRAFT KIT.

Ever bought tile on mesh and found it impossible to get the adhesive off? Thanks to The Craft Kit for this most excellent idea.

• Buy a bottle of Draino or other similar product for unblocking drains. This is safe for use in all sinks and baths and not dangerous to touch using the proper precaution.
• Take a plastic dish or container and put the tiles that you need to soak off into it. Using a measuring cup add cups of water until the tiles are covered by water. Remove the tiles leaving the water in the container. Add 1/4 cup draino for every cup of water in the plastic container.
• Stir the water and draino carefuly to mix.
• Add the tiles gently section by section with the mesh side down.
• Leave to soak overnight.
• Pour off liquid from container, this is actually good for your drains as well.
• Fill container with fresh cold water. Drain and repeat 2 times.
• Remove tiles from mesh using your fingers you can rub off any excess softened glue. Dry the tiles on paper towels or old cloths.

Sounds good but I haven't tried it yet. If you have success (or failure) drop us a line and tell us about it!

Glass on Glass Mosaics

Just a little tip for you all.  When you are creating glass on glass mosaics and you do not want to see the adhesive underneath use a very thin amount of weldbond on the entire piece of glass to help it dry quickly and uniformly with limited bubbling. Also ensure that you cover the entire piece of glass with glue because if not, the grout will leach underneath the glass and look terrible.

Happy Mosaicking!

Using Smalti

I get a lot of questions regarding working with certain materials. Paul from Lloydminster, AB wanted to know how to get started with smalti. What tools, what adhesives and to grout or not to grout...that is the question!  Here is my reply.

Many people say that you must have a hammer and hardie to cut smalti. (tradition tool which I do own, however I suck at using it!!)  I simply use the dual wheeled cutters for cutting the smalti and the tile nippers for trimming. I also use a hand file to grind the edges a bit but a dremel would be speedier (is that a word??).

 

Smalti is traditionally left ungrouted but if I am mixing it with other materials I often space and grout it exactly the same way.

 

http://www.mosaicbeach.com/albums/album_image/2360932/686566.htm  this is a piece of mine that is smalti and ungrouted. As it is an indoor art piece I just used Weldbond as the adhesive (framed plywood base). I did however paint the board the EXACT same colours I was going to use in smalti in case I couldn't get them perfectly tight. That way you can't see the wood through my spacing mistakes!

 

http://www.mosaicbeach.com/albums/album_image/4717895/1572736.htm  This is a piece done by Sara Paquin of Quintessential mosaics (one of our studio artists).  She created the flower and vase in the traditional smalti way (tight and ungrouted) and then did regular grouted tile around it. I think it is a pretty cool effect.

 

http://www.mosaicbeach.com/albums/album_image/2360932/686562.htm This a piece I did with smalti and vitreous. It is all grouted and spaced like a traditional mosaic. The smalti is much thicker than the vitreous though so it gives it a nice 3d effect.

 

Hope this gives you all some ideas for working with new materials this year. Don't hesitate to drop me a line if you need more information or have another question. This is how we all learn!

 

disappearing springs in duals & nippers

Ha! Finally found a way to outwit those springs. You know the ones that fall off everytime you put your nippers down...or disappear when you are not looking?? Good old elastic band my friends.  Not so loose that it falls of and not so tight that the nippers won't open. Just leave it on ALL THE TIME and those dastardly springs will never abandon you again!

Epoxy Tips

I receive lots of queries regarding epoxy. Here are some of the things I do to save time, effort or the piece. When in doubt read the instructions. The NU-Lustre 55 that we sell has quite the how to handout!

For those of you not familar with epoxy it is a hard glass like surface equal to 55 coats of varnish. You mix a resin and a hardener together to create a chemical reaction. The biggest thing to be concerned with when epoxying is ensuring that you mix the 2 parts equally. If not, the surface may not harden properly. Definitely measure. I use plastic disposable shot glasses from the dollar store. I also mix the epoxy in disposable beer cups from the dollar store 'cause trust me...you do not want to be cleaning these bad boys.

I mix the hardener & resin together with a popsicle stick for 2 minutes (to create the chemical reaction) and I apply it with that popsicle stick. You can use a foam brush too. It is self-levelling so it seems to smooth out nicely without much help. I simply blow on any bubbles that form. I set the whole piece on cling wrap in-case there is any drippage and then watch for & remove any drips for the 1st half an hour. After that it is pretty much set up. Ensure you work in a well-ventillated and dust free area. A lot more fun than it sounds and it isn't that hard to do.  HAVE FUN! 

Grout Drama's

Great question from Mario in Ottawa that I wanted to address for everyone regarding unhappiness with our grout colours.

http://mosaicbeach.typepad.com/mosaicbeachblog/2006/11/grout_haze_ever.html#comment-66580418

Firstly, just so everyone knows grout almost always dries lighter than it looks wet (black being an exception). However, it should be close to the sample card so check those out. When in doubt do a test. But barring all that you can colour grout after the fact. What I would do is tint it by mixing latex or acrylic paint 50/50 with water & then painting the entire piece (tiles included cause you just can't miss them).  Let it sit for 5 minutes and then buff the paint off of the tiles. The colour should stay in the grout. I would mist the grout first to give it an even better chance of bonding. If that doesn't get it quite to the colour you want just continue to paint & buff every 5 minutes until you achieve your dream colour. With masking tape this is also a way to experiment with multiple grout colours. Then I would definitely seal the grout to protect the more fragile painted surface.

I'm not even commenting on your use of unsanded grout 'cause we all know how I feel about that but in some cases it can be ok. Send us pictures Mario & I will post them here!

What base for outdoor tables?

Thanks to Erin Frizzell of Broken by Design Mosaic Studio in Vancouver BC for today's question.

Outdoor tables are a bit tricky, especially for us here in Canada. If you want to leave it out year-round the only real option is concrete board. I cut a piece the size I need & then screw a piece of exterior grade ply underneath it for support. Screw from the outside in. This way if the board does rot you can remove it and screw in another piece to support the mosaic. The only adhesive that is suitable for tables outside is thinset mortar. Full stop.  I find it difficult to work with in the direct method so I always use the indirect or mesh methods when using thinset.

For three season tables I use a product called Crezon or Armorboard. It is a signboard used by the government for street signs. It resists expansion & contraction unlike real wood. Prime it really well & be sure to bring it in in the winter. The good thing with Crezon is that it cuts like wood. So much easier than concreteboard!

And please, feel free to ask questions via the blog or the website..I will continue to add and update the blog as I get them.

Working with Epoxy

Someone asked me yesterday about working with epoxy. Most of the stuff you need to know is in the instructions but here are a couple things I have learned.

1. Tape the outsides of tables with paint tape & REMOVE the tape within an hour of epoxying. If you leave it on while it dries the epoxy will break when you pull it off, ruining your finish.
2. Watch for drips. I check it every 15 minutes or so for an hour, using a gloved finger to remove the drips.
3. I like to place little things like coasters on cling wrap while I work. Lay out a second cling wrap sheet for when it starts setting up (1/2 hour or so) and move them to that sheet after checking all of the sides for drips. Let 'em dry in a dust free environment.

There...some of my best (learned the hard way, by screwing it up the first time).  Got some great tips & tricks? Share please!!

Grout haze everywhere!!

The power of plain white vinegar is a sight to behold. Dirty, grout-speckled mosaics become beautiful works of art again with the assistance of a toothbrush (or nail brush or other soft brush) and straight white vinegar.  Having problems getting the grout out of your vitreous glass tiles or the haze off of your ceramic? Wait a day after grouting. (even 3-4 hours will do) Take the vinegar and brush liberally onto your project. Give it a good scrub. Let it sit for a minute or two & then scrub it again. Sponge liberally with water (this is caustic stuff and will continue to chew away at your grout if you don't remove it) and for the love of mosaic if it is done on wood or MDF do NOT stick it in the sink!! Then buff it with a dry, lint free cloth. IT is TERRIFIC. And even if you have old projects kicking around it will still help. Give it a go. I swear by it and so do my students.

Have fun! Tanya